Behind a deep blue façade, in a bare-bones minimalist setting designed by Daniel Gallo, two bearded troublemakers wearing sneakers, Jean-Baptiste Jay (who used to work at Berasategui in Barcelona) and Yann-Eric Toutain, are spicing up the neighborhood.
Especially at night, when it’s tapas hour under the octopus light fixture: very fresh melon ceviche; clams with fennel in a broth (and a little bit of sand…); delicious octopus and orecchiette; cream risotto (oh yes…); inspired crab and ricotta ravioli, etc.
And at lunch, with a set weekday menu (mackerel rillettes, roast hake with chervil and lemon curd for only €14.90!) and shellfish on Saturdays: oysters from Cancale, steamed mussels and fries, drowned in the richness of a Sauvignon from Touraine, Silex de Preys, or the turmoil of a Beaujolais-Villages Le Blanc de Dufaître (€4-5 a glass). Menu €14.90 to €17.90 (lunch), plates €5-8 (dinner)